Why is it so expensive to make a handbag sample?
Decrypting the reality of why factories can charge so much
When I started my handbag brand, I did not know how to sew, let alone understand a pattern. I was fascinated and borderline filled with envy who had the skills to buy material (of any kind), then map out how to break it down with pieces, and then actually construct it into a physical bag.
(Note: the dancing Butterick lady is a fan-favorite, especially for those who had to learn the hard way about patterns…) I digress, which usually happens when you start a business, let alone a business you have no experience in.
Your first handbag sample comes in many shapes, forms, and ways based on your original inspiration.
You realized something was missing in the market
You found a bag that you loved but knew you could make it better
You woke up totally inspired to be a handbag designer because you have always loved handbags
For me, and if anyone has been following me for the past fifteen-plus years, I came up with a handbag to hold onto when you go out when I had a DJ boyfriend and was attending business school. I had no idea what to do or how to do it - all I knew was that I HAD to do it. It’s odd to be risk-averse on everything else but to throw yourself headfirst into an entrepreneurial endeavor- you don’t even think twice.
This brings me to my original point of why factories charge so much for sampling or the bigger question: Why CAN factories charge so much for sampling? Well, I cover this in my Handbag Designer 101 Masterclass since this has become an ongoing issue for every designer I encounter.
In New York City, one can shell out a minimum of $7000 for a singular handbag sample, maybe minor alterations after completion. There may even be an additional fee for consulting or reviewing your initial design. I explain this to my designers by saying it's the factory’s right to do so, and it’s not too far off to explain why. Let me break it down as I call it the “you are too new for them to ever become a real client” fee.
If you are not prepared, the danger zone of meeting a factory or a sample maker is that they can sniff out your excitement and ignorance. Their interpretation is that you have no idea who your target customer is, how much they would be willing to pay for this bag, or have a strategy that once you even have the sample made, you will have orders against it promptly. In addition, you have done no real research on how materials work; you are most likely “obsessed” with leather from Italy and don’t understand the A, B, C’s of handbag construction. (FYI - I wrote a book about this too, care of the origin name “Handbag Designer 101”…) If we translate this to a concept of the “time value of money,” it is that they are going to spend a lot of time with you, working with you to develop a product that will no go anywhere when they could be spending their time on working with their clients that are already bringing in ongoing orders and business.
Everyone has a dream of making this handbag that is missing on the market and will essentially split the atom of fashion accessories, but we all know the reality is that there is no shortage of handbags out there, so how will yours be different? I created the Handbag Designer 101 Masterclass to help the designers who come to me after they have been through this, spent that hard-earned and saved cash to make that first sample, only to realize they didn’t know what they were doing. That “oversized tote” they wanted ended up more like an oversized boat because they didn’t take their measurements correctly, and the factory never corrected them. The hot pink, royal blue, and purple mix don’t work well together, so they couldn’t show the sample to a store. The clutch that was missing on the market neglected to have a space for crossbody straps, and so they used the bag begrudgingly because they spent too much money on making it. My favorite is - “my friends are tired of wearing their Chanel and Gucci bags and will be willing to spend $2000 for my one-of-a-kind bag, so it doesn’t matter how much it costs to make.”
What can you do to avoid this? Well, you can start by doing your homework. There are basics you can do before you get to that point.
Do a deep dive into who your customers are, their age, where they live, how many handbags they have, and where they shop.
Be realistic about your demographic—they are not and will not all be beautiful people living in fabulous cities who are petite with makeup done.
Who is your competition? I mean this for real. It is not Gucci or Prada.
Go shop around online and in-store to see the retail landscape of how handbags are sold and merchandised.
Start following your local boutiques on social media and letting them know you exist. Stop by and ask questions. (Do not do it on a Saturday, either—stick to Tuesdays in the middle of the day.)
Remember, you won’t be in Bloomingdales or Nordstrom's tomorrow—nor should you be. Those stores want a track record of traction and success before taking your call or email.
Research materials and learn how they are sold. Leather is sold by the square foot and by the skin, and man-made materials are sold by the yard in large rolls.
Do your best to mock up your bag yourself. Start with construction paper, move to muslin with cardboard, and color it with markers.
Ask questions! Take this DIY sample and show it to your customer, get their feedback, and make adjustments.
If you already have a stalling handbag brand, go back to Step 1.
I am sharing below my step-by-step of how I made my original sample following what I had read the great Kate Spade had done, which I am now passing on to you. Remember that I have my own sample-making factory horror stories (which include sitting by my sample maker for eight hours waiting for them to finish my sample before a trade show because he didn’t think I would come back to pick it up because the silhouette was so “strange”…)
Anyway, I think I have gone on long enough. For those of you who have been through this nightmare, I feel for you. But - for those who have not, read this and move forward with caution. I work with many factories who have even asked me to vet their new clients since I know how the system works, which in turn will save you money and time - and ensure your handbag brand a brighter future.