Our obsession with vintage handbags
Why new "old" bags is hotter than ever & 5 new brands to search for on your next hunt.
I have been in handbags for a really, really long time. I have read probably every article that comes out on the next “hot” designers, what the season's “newest” trends are - or even this year will have an “it bag,” or maybe it won’t. We all know the insane craving for high-end labels and why platforms like The RealReal, 1st Dibs, Rebagg, and What Goes Around Comes Around have been able to have continued growth because what we call the “circular market” means we simply want other people’s old bags—and right now, a lot.
This is no longer the case. If you bought the car and drove it off the lot, and now the valuation has gone down. No, people are on the hunt for a find of used Gucci or Chanel for whatever reason, and these bags have retained their value; some have even doubled in price, like stock from Apple. Whether they don’t want to spend the money to put the original, can’t afford it, or want to show they are the kind of person who carries a bag like that - or - are simply - obsessed with the art of the hunt - this part of the retail market is here to stay. However, as someone who has championed the independent designer and talks handbag history constantly, there is a wealth of brands from the past that should be on your next hunt that had an impact on its time but lacks the notoriety of its big brand contemporaries.
I wanted to share in the “garden of remembrance” a few key brands to look for that are no longer with us but had an impact on handbags as we know them.
Koret Handbags by Richard Koret
Richard Koret revolutionized handbag design, turning functional pocketbooks into stylish accessories. Starting as an orphan and newsboy, he worked his way up to founding his own company in 1929. Koret introduced features like compartments for combs, compacts, and work essentials, as well as travel-friendly innovations like outer passport pockets. During WWII, he designed handbags for women in the armed forces, which became so popular they were later sold to civilians. By creatively using leather scraps during shortages, Koret set new trends, often predicting styles he intended to create, and maintained strong ties with the fashion media to shape the industry. I actually tracked down one of his old employees since Koret has the patent for the interior pocket before Chanel claims to have done it - but to no avoil - he just thought was “just excited” to learn more handbag history. Actually, he has about 10 handbag patents - a man after my own heart.
H. Margolin Handbags
H. Margolin & Co., Inc. was a New York-based handbag company active from the 1920s through the 1950s. It was known for high-quality leather and suede bags, including the innovative Marcraft Mystery Pocket line, which became their hero bag. The company adapted to trends like wartime practicality and post-war elegance. Margolin’s designs are now valued as vintage collectibles as seen above with the mixture of bakelite and patent leather. Funny because most brands you can find information on them because they were either sold/acquired or were written up in WWD (Women’s Wear Daily.)
I had a hunch that I could find out more if I googled his name in a handbag patent search and I was right. The founder was Hyman Margolin and got a design patent for a print he put on a clutch which just goes to show how far we have come in history.
Coblentz Handbags
Louis J. Coblentz handbags were known for their luxurious and timeless designs, especially popular in the 1940s and 1950s. Based in New York City, the brand focused on creating elegant evening bags and clutches, often using exotic leathers like alligator and snakeskin. They stood out for their attention to detail, incorporating features like Lucite handles, intricate clasps, and embellishments that added a unique charm. The Coblentz Bag Company was a handbag manufacturer that operated from 1935 to around 1980 until it filed for bankrupcy which is a pretty good run if you ask me for a brand that started during WWII. (P.S. The ones that are scattered through the resale sites list them as very underpriced in my opinion and are really a good deal.)
Rosenfeld Handbags
Founded by Harry Rosenfeld in the 1950s, he established the brand as a symbol of luxury and craftsmanship. Known for his innovative designs, Rosenfeld created bags using a variety of materials like fine leather, waxed canvas, and silk, often collaborating with jeweler Kenneth Jay Lane. His creations, sold in high-end department stores and his own New York City shop, included unique pieces like a 1960s waxed canvas purse with a Françoise Boucher print, sculptural silk handbags, and evening bags with beaded handles and lucite bamboo-shaped handles. Rosenfeld's bags were popular in the 1950s and 1960s, but the brand eventually declined in the 1970s due to increased competition.
Morris Moskowitz Handbags
In 1937, Morris Moskowitz had $100 to invest in a handbag company. He needed a total of $1,500, so he borrowed the balance from his sister Shirley which used to start his eponymous handbag brand in 1948. (The brand was later known for its iconic “MM” label.) His work caught attention, and in 1952, he collaborated with Forstmann on a wool broadcloth bag line, probably a big collaboration for that time. Moskowitz's company, which employed future industry leaders like Judith Leiber and Sharif El Fouly, won multiple awards, including the 1960 Lord and Taylor Award. In 1982, he sold his company and retired, with the brand being licensed to Dooney & Bourke in the mid-1980s. The vintage finds for this brand are incredible - more storage and clearly they were so well-made.
I have one more “History of Women’s Handbags” to go but if you enjoyed this - let me know and I can share more of my favorite handbag brands are worthy of the vintage hunt that are no longer with us.
I'm so glad I finally found you on substack. Anyone who knows me knows handbags are an absolute obsession. I just love them!
Love all of these ❤️